SANDFLY CITY AND ICE AINT NICE


SANDFLY CITY.

With my crew of one Husky dog sitting at the bow I set out early, putting along with the aid of a two  horsepower outboard I swapped for some pot at the Tip shop.  The bloody thing was so deficient in power that even when it was running full stick I had to row as hard as I could to make it around the rocky points and sandbars. It took about three hours of constant motoring and rowing before I was finally able to tie the dinghy up on a small palm lined beach inside of Cromitary Bay.  Beyond a small park through palms and hanging vines I could see luxury, beachfront homes but there were no people in my immediate sight.  I had ample time to lay my bedroll and tarp it over before a guy walking a dog passed by.  We exchanged friendly hellos and he didn’t give my floating habitat a second glance.  I assumed the rich people in this neighbourhood might take exception to a water gypsy camping in their midst, so I tried to keep my presence as low profile as I could.  The spot I had settled was the best possible place I could as it was the start of a rocky outcrop which was separated from the main beach by a fallen tree. The dog walkers and joggers all seemed to have made the dead tree the point at which they turned back so only those who went beyond the log knew we were there.  

When the tide turned and the fish stopped biting I left Hus to guard my camp and rode into the Little Salamander shopping centre for supplies.  I had to push the bike up a couple of slopes but apart from that it was a relatively flat run.  I completed the shopping run in about a third of the time it normally took from Taylors beach which confirmed it was a better location to be in.  On the second day of my scouting mission I motored out from the beach and circled the bay through countless oyster racks in search of a deep, secluded inlet.  There were a number of them around the place but the one that most suited my needs was situated directly in front of a large quarry.  Even though it was very noisy from the quarry operation I decided to make it my base as I further checked out the territory as it offered the flattest and shortest possible bike run into the shops.  From the waterline I had to walk the bike along a sandy, grassland track, but less than sixty feet from the boat I was on the bitumen road at the rear of the industrial estate.  I only got to stay in that area for one night because in the morning two quarry workers walked into my camp accompanied by Council Rangers.  They said they were preparing to blast the following day and they didn’t want anyone in the area.  The busty, young, female Ranger was sporting a badge that read ‘Team Leader’ and she was quick to establish I was sleeping in the dinghy. She declared that I was camping illegally and I should count myself lucky I was getting off with a warning.  I was quick to inform our sexy little Council Ranger that the boat was in the water and I was out fishing which meant if anything I was a Water Authorities or NSW Fisheries problem.  The Team Leader was quite a babe about thirty two years old and with my last remark the hint of an amused smile escaped  her lips.  Before the officials had departed the scene I was moving out of the inlet towards the mouth. I waved them a cheery farewell as I putted off with imaginings of the female Ranger writhing naked on my bedroll. All wishful thinking aside I was still concerned they might notify the water police so I pulled into the mouth of the next inlet and went as far up it as I could. Where I finally tied up was so far out of range of the large, twin hulled, police boats they would need to mount a kayak expedition to find me. 

On one of my daily beer runs I stopped to fill my water bottle at a tap beside a plumbing shop. Just inside the roller door I spotted a Honda motorbike sitting under a dusty old tarp and I wandered over to make some enquiries.  I was soon to discover that the guys who ran the plumbing business were also keen power boat enthusiasts.  They were both bent over the V8 engine of their boat with greasy hands when I walked into the showroom but they were happy to carry on a conversation at the same time.  As they worked Harry and Dan informed me the bike had belonged to their ‘egg head’ nephew who filled the tank with the wrong type of fuel.  They said I could have it for a hundred bucks and if I wanted to come back in a couple of days they would see if they could get it going.  Motorheads.  Don’t you just love em? When I returned to the plumbing depot as arranged the old posty bike was up and running with a new tank of fuel, a new sparkplug and points. They guys received an extra thirty bucks on top of the hundred for their trouble but it was well worth it in my view.  I was the proud owner of the kind of bike you see in the trading post for six or seven hundred bucks at the very least.  After I had handed over the cash I stashed my pushbike at the rear of their shop and rode the Honda back to my camp.  Husky was barking his head off as I moved towards him and even after I had turned the engine off he was still suspicious of the bike.  He growled around it sniffing the tyres and then he retreated to a safe distance. I had scouted Cromitary Bay enough to know it was where I needed to be so I decided to get back to where the yacht was moored and prepare for the next big move. My main priority was to get the unregistered Honda out of public view so with the dawn I bashed a track through the beach scrub and mangroves back to the  yacht and chained the bike up inside the wood tent. I had to walk the ten or so kilometres I had followed to get back to Husky and the tinny.  The next morning I retrieved the pushbike and gave the plumbers a positive report on how the Honda had performed in the mangrove mud.  I motored out of the entrance of the bay that afternoon and by sundown I was sucking on a cold one on the deck of the yacht, having a private chuckle at my good fortune. At great effort I was to perform a skilful balancing act which saw the Honda being wheeled along a double strengthened gangplank and strapped to the base of the mast. The wheels sat neatly in the pontoon docks and held it in position.  Another recent acquisition from the recycle depot was a fully rigged catamaran that Dave let me have for a mere hundred and fifty bucks.  The pontoons on the cat were eventually to be fitted to the tri maran but in the meantime I intended to use it like a trailer for the yacht. The plastic dinghy was tied to the upper deck and my new tinny was towed along behind the cat. My plan was for a night run out through the mouth of the inlet on a high tide and then by hugging the shoreline past Taylors Beach I would make it to Mud Point before daylight. Just around the next bend after the Point is where Cromitary Bay begins and on the scouting mission I had found a small beach with a grassy clearing.  This is where I intended to establish my first campsite once I had the yacht in the area.

The sky was clear and a half moon reflected peacefully on flat water as I connected the battery terminals for a car headlight sitting halfway up the mast. Once ignited it lit up the mangroves for miles and the water came to life as schools of mullet and garfish were dazzled by sudden brightness. The tide was fast approaching the peak as I untied the mooring lines.  I left the anchor in position where it sat and the boats all swung around in formation to settle on the opposite bank.  When the tide started to turn my flotilla of watercraft was pulled into the middle of the estuary above the central channel and I was off.   From the bow of the yacht I used the long, but very light aluminium mast from the catamaran to keep the boats away from protruding branches.  I was moving out of the inlet at the very start of the turning tide so it was relatively easy going to manoeuvre through the mouth.  Now over the sandbars near the estuary entrance I was able to climb into the water and take my position on the bowline.  There were a number of submerged snags in the immediate area that could puncture the hull of the yacht so I walked the boats through rather than using the pole. I made it clear of the snag ridden mouth as the outgoing tide increased in velocity and pulled me away from the shore. The current started dragging me into deeper water towards the twinkling lights of Lemon Tree Passage and this was the wrong direction completely for where I needed to be.  My original plan was to hug the shore until I was past the ramp and jetty area of Taylors Beach but the strong current and a sudden increase in wind speed were not going to allow it to happen. 

With little time to think in the changing conditions I quickly devised a plan ‘B’ and allowed the boats to be pulled into the middle of the yachts and houseboats moored off Taylors Beach.  I tied up at a frantic speed between two large houseboats and once that was done my vessels were mostly out of view of onlookers.  Much to my relief the wind swung around towards the shore as the kookaburras started to yodel and dawn light lit up the morning sky.  With the wind conditions now working in my favour I attempted to get back to the beach with the severely undersized motor running at full stick.  When I was only halfway there it began to smoke and splutter in a sickening, mortally wounded display then it died with a horrible final cough. It was a good job I had decided to have the cat mast on the tinny with me because without it I wouldn’t have been able to make it the last ten or so meters to the shore.  The Taylors Beach boatramp was about one kilometre behind me and up ahead a further two was the first available mangrove sheltered spot where I could conceal my flotilla of boats. A number of watercraft were fishing the early tide and it was only a matter of time before the water police did their morning patrol.  After I had re attached the tinny to the rear of the cat I walked the boats through small shoreline breakers until I reached overhanging mangroves at a small, rocky cove.  I struggled to drag the yacht and all it was towing into the cove and eventually I was able to tie up in shallow waters obscured from view by palms and hanging foliage.  I was on an open stretch of beach wetting a line and throwing the stick for Husky when the water police patrol came through.  They stopped alongside a couple of recreational fishing vessels for a short time and then motored off in the opposite direction to where I had dropped anchor.  Good stuff. They hadn’t spotted the boats which gave me time to plan my next move.  My trip to Cromitary Bay was based on the weather reports I had been following closely and the window of clear skies they promised was soon to be closed.  Thunderheads were gathering in the East and I had no option but to batten down the hatches and sit out the blow.  Just after sunset the evening breeze picked up to become solid gusts and by eleven o’clock the storm front was rocking the boats wildly. Deafening thunder directly overhead and lightening strikes to match provided an ideal backdrop as I sipped on a wee dram in the Captains cabin and contemplated my next move when the weather settled down. 

After two days of dirty conditions the sun shone through and I made preparations to ship out.  A night run from the cove to little beach at the start of Cromitary Bay was my planned objective and without the use of the outboard it was definitely going to be a challenge.  The night tide came up and I hauled the boats out of their hiding place but when I got to the sandbars bordering the cove I found the water was much too shallow.  The bow of the yacht bogged deep into the sand and while I was climbing on board to get my pole the wind picked up swinging the boats around from the rear. The cat and the tinny were directly above the sandbar and they were pulling the yacht backwards with them. Bastard.  What an absolute fuck up.  Once back in the water and straining over a badly bogged bow nothing I could do with the pole was of any use.  The sudden wind increase had swung the boats around and it was just too strong to go against. I climbed back on the yacht and dropped anchor, praying  the wind might shift direction and blow me off the sandbar but it didn’t happen.  By sun up the tide had all but completely receded and my convoy of pleasure craft was left sitting on an exposed sandbar in open view of the bay. The yacht was sitting on its side resting on the drums with the cat and the tinny tied on behind in a sad line of marooned vessels.  I knew it was only a matter of time before I would have to deal with the authorities unless by some miracle of fate they didn’t spot me.  No such luck.  The morning patrol came powering in from the direction of Nelson Bay and they cut the engines when my grounded, side leaning yacht came into view.  As they approached the sandbar I walked towards them with Husky trying to appear as casual as I could. The response I got to “Hi guys … What can I do for you?”  was “We’re here to piss you off”. They were a couple of young, hard nosed, footy player types who had no interest in light hearted chatter. The cops were only interested in informing me that I had two days to get my piece of floating junk off the sandbar and remove it from the bay. Along with my personal ID I had to show them proof of ownership for all the boats, the outboard motor and the motorbike. They didn’t even bother asking to see any kind of boat licence or registration and left satisfied even though I had failed to show them any paperwork for the tinny. I considered that I had got off lightly and now the only thing to do was work on getting an extention to the two days deadline I had been given.  That afternoon I made a call on my mobile phone to office of the Water Police in Nelson Bay and spoke with a Chief inspector Brown.  Inspector Brown was far more easy going than his over zealous rookies and when I explained that I needed a one point eight tide at least to get clear of the sandbar he agreed to an extension. He studied a tide chart as we conversed and worked out that I could remain there for a further week and two days. 
The conversation was so friendly and relaxed that my final parting vocalizasion was a friendly little “Chow!” I was lying to the Police Chief about the one point eight meters I would need and on the night tide of the following evening I was able to wrestle the boats away from the sandbar. I was blessed with a beautifully still night and flat water which allowed me to make it around Mud Point before the sun rose.  The mangrove lined beach I tied up at was completely out of view of any police vessels and I imagined the only way they would know my whereabouts was if some oyster farmer made a complaint. I had dropped anchor in the most picturesque of sub tropical settings but by mid morning something I had not bargained for made itself painfully known to me.  The area was so badly infested with sandflies that Husky and I had to hide in the stinking hot cabin for most of the day with the hatch closed tight.  The insufferable fumes of insect spray got so bad I eventually had to open the hatch and in they came again.  The swarm was so thick that in the end all I could do was sit by my twelve volt powered desk fan, fully clothed, with a scarf wrapped around my head.

With the new day I commenced work dressed in a jumpsuit I created out of high quality, cotton mosquito netting.  I applied roll on repellent through the weaved cotton at regular intervals and it helped to give me fighting chance out in the open.  All of my most treasured belongings were loaded out of the yacht and stacked on the catamaran in readiness for the move back to Taylors Beach.  I had to leave the Honda where it was in the hope I might be able to retrieve it on a later trip.  The moment I had finished securing the yacht and tarping it over I began the long row back to the inlet where my ill fated journey had begun.  Once past Mud Point I was able to ride the incoming tide and a favorable back wind saw us back at home base by mid afternoon.  Exhausted as I was on our arrival I had to unload my belongings off of the cat and stash them among the palms. Another explosive summer storm was brewing as I raced time and fatigue to erect a makeshift shelter before the rain came down.  When the storm passed I got a fire going with some half dry palm fronds and a whole can of outboard motor fuel. After a superb meal of charcoal flathead and baked beans I knocked over the last of my Johnnie Walkers and smoked a few well stacked joints.  This was the first time I had been able to properly relax since I left the very spot I was sitting and set off into the bay.  Constantly dodging the authorities had taken it’s toll and my great outdoors boating adventure was now in a serious state of review. If the whole area on the side of the bay where I wanted to live was as badly infested then it meant the inlet I was planning to settle in was not fit for human habitation. 

In light of my Water Police and sandfly problems I decided the best option was to return the yacht to my original inlet campsite and then attempt to get it back to Hollywood.  Good old common sense had well and truly kicked in to rule my thoughts and I figured the wisest thing I could do was work towards selling the yacht.  I had picked it up for a mere three hundred bucks and lived on it for almost a year.  I had saved hundreds of dollars in rental costs and I got to have an experience that many only dream about or get to enjoy after a life of hard labor.  My hippy trail education had long since taught me not to be attached to material objects as they will only bring misery, so even if the cops impounded my vessel I would just laugh it off as experience. After hearing of my ordeals Buck let me use the Ford a second time to transport my stuff back to Hollywood. I set up a temporary land base in the old Bedford and tinny was left chained upside down among the palms. Buck agreed to take the yacht off my hands for what I had paid for it saying he would float it in the new dam when it was finished.  The big question was would it still be there when next I returned to the area.  I had it stashed under the cover of the mangroves, but all it would take was a sharp eyed, police helicopter pilot and the game would be well and truly over. 
   
                                                                   
                                                                   ‘ICE’ AIN’T SO NICE.

The setting had altered dramatically on the slab since last I was part of the Hollywood scene. All of the cars except for the vintage classics had been stripped of their components and the rusting remains were carted away for scrap metal.  In their place were six shipping containers filled with spare sparts and there were countless metal racks around the property holding more of the same. This was Bucks new strategy going into action to get the banks paid off and he had ten full time workers on the payroll working day and night shifts.

A couple of days after my return to Hollywood I locked the truck up and headed back to the tinny to continue my rescue mission for the yacht. The run from the lot back out to Taylors beach was the first real test of how Husky would perform pulling the bike with a fully loaded bike trailer and he really lived up to his name.  A couple of times he stopped for a crap at the worst possible locations but apart from that he did a commendable job.  The bike trailer had a five horsepower outboard on it I picked up cheap from one of Bucks car part customers. When we got to the boat I unloaded the motor and the supplies then I hid the bike and trailer among the palms.  When the tinny was eventually floating in the water it looked overloaded enough to attract the attention of the authorities so another night run would be the best way to avoid their scrutiny. We arrived at the beach near the fallen tree by cover of night and after the tide went out I slept in the dinghy on the sand.  At first light I stashed the bulk of my stuff behind a patch of lantana and motored out of the area.  The tinny was now far less weighed down and I was more than ready to attempt towing the yacht if it was still there.  I crossed the bay and entered the Sandfly zone dressed in my mosquito netting jumpsuit and heavily splashed down with citronella oil.  It wasn’t a pleasant trip at all because the oil soon mixed with my sweat in the morning sun and it burned like melting wax into my eyes. Once in the general area I had left the yacht I cut the engine beside some oyster racks so I could splash my eyes with bottled water. As unimpaired vision returned I scanned the mangrove lined bank and saw the flash of white hull between the foliage.  Good shit. The motorbike was as I had left it and there were no signs that my belongings had been disturbed. 

Once untied from it’s moorings the tri-maran proved quite easy to tow with the five horsepower engine even against the currents.  I maneuvered the load through an endless network of oyster racks on the highest point of the tide and dropped anchor just off the beach where I had stashed my gear.  After loading my camping gear onto the yacht I left Cromitary Bay to the sandflies and putted away back towards Taylors beach.  No water police or other such officials crossed our path along the way and by late afternoon the yacht was sitting where it had been before the trouble started.  The following day was spent detaching the mast and laying it along the deck in readiness for road travel.  I removed the steel drums from their makeshift outriggers and stashed them in the palms with the intention of fitting the catamaran pontoons once the yacht was on high ground.   When next I returned to Hollywood Buck and I agreed on a plan whereby I would tow the boat trailer to the ramp and get the yacht in a ready position for the move.  It was to take place in two days time on the high tide and hopefully before the cops spotted the yacht out in the open.  I was three days over the absolute final deadline as dictated by Inspector Brown, so if anything went wrong they would surely impound it. I had completed my end of the agreement in the specified time and the tide was approaching the peak when I checked in with Buck at his office.  The whole rowdy crew were having their smoko break in there as they usually do and I had to wait until a number of work related conversations had concluded before Buck was ready to deal with me.  He seemed far more interested in blowing ice and smoking bongs with the lads than remembering our plans and any attempt to talk about tide times fell on deaf ears.  By the time we finally arrived at the ramp in Bucks work ute the water had well and truly receded and the boat was on it’s side.  I suggested that he had left things too late and we should do it the following day but he had other ideas.  I knew it would be an exercise in futility to even attempt what Buck was proposing but he was the new owner so I was forced to view it as just more ice crazed entertainment for my memoirs. 

After removing the motorbike from the deck I sat on a rock and smoked a joint as Buck fired instructions at a couple of flunkies he had recruited for the job.  The boat trailer was dragged down to the base of the ramp and a thick wire cable was attached to a loop on the bow.   Just as I had imagined it would the loop snapped away at the first hint of pressure leaving a gaping hole you could stick your head in.  Still convinced he was going to be able to drag the boat along the sand and onto the trailer Buck pulled out every available length of stainless steel rope I had in the hatch.  The cables were attached to the hull and upper deck of the yacht at a number of points and the opposite ends were shackled to the ute.  Buck gunned the engine of his utility up the slippery ramp in a skidding, cable snapping display of hard headed defiance and I watched the badly stressed hull crack open to expose my fiberglass repairs.  With his frantic efforts he had only managed to drag the boat about three feet but he insisted he could get it with the next pull.  I didn’t feel like watching my dreamboat being destroyed any longer so I wished him luck with his new yacht and rode the Honda back to Hollywood.  At sundown Bucks ute pulled into the yard and there was no boat in tow. That evening as the crew listened in I had to endure yet another of his hair brained schemes which involved a front end loader to pull the damaged boat off the sand. Not wanting to appear a doubting Thomas in front of his workers I wished him luck with the project in the most sincere vocal delivery I could fabricate. Things had really hit rock bottom between us since he became enslaved by his ice addiction and now I was saying things he wanted to hear just to keep the peace.  He was still my host so I had to bite my tongue but I was counting the moments until I could split that uncomfortable scene forever.

The Honda had been a prized acquisition to compliment my life on a yacht lifestyle but with the unexpected changes it became more of a burden than an asset. In an act of decisive spontaneity I rode it into the local motorcycle dealer to see if I might sell it for what I had paid and I was to receive a pleasant surprise.  The bloke said the motor sounded like it was in really good condition and he offered me three hundred bucks cash for it on the spot. We shook on the deal as the money was handed over and we both walked away happy with the transaction.  Letting the bike go meant more to me than just losing a useful mode of transport. It was also the point at which I made a conscious decision not to buy anymore motorbikes in the future.  Apart from the fact it made my supply runs a lot easier I had been riding for the pure exhilaration and danger that comes with bush bashing through the wetlands.  In the time I owned it I had a number of close calls the worst of which involved a speeding car and would qualify as a near death experience.  I had devised a plan where I would ride sidesaddle in the grass at the side of the road whenever I was traveling near bitumen.  If I was quick enough to spot any cop cars on the highway I could easily start walking the bike with the engine running and they would be none the wiser.  It was a great strategy in theory but in the early stages of learning how to travel sidesaddle at speed I almost lost my life.  I had been traveling on the gravel shoulder of Taylors Beach Road for about two kilometers and satisfied I had mastered the art I pulled out onto the paved road.  I was concentrating on getting into the normal riding position instead of paying attention to traffic coming the other way and it almost got me killed.  I raised my eyes from the handlebar controls to see a speeding car with a teenage chick at the wheel and she was less than six feet from impact.  I jerked the bars hard to the left and missed the front end of the speeding P plater by a gap so narrow I can’t begin to describe it. The horrible feeling that lodged in the pit of my guts let me know exactly how close I had come to a bloody and mangled end.  It was a feeling I had experienced in times past when I was a reckless, speeding teenager but back then it was just another adrenaline blast.  I had aged considerably since and the feeling of having survived reactivated the self preservation workshop in my head.  Among a million other considerations I started thinking about what would happen to Husky if I was carted off in an ambulance. A new mode of parental responsibility kicked in and I started consciously treasuring our every moment together like it was the very last.   Hus and I did part company briefly one day when he wandered away from the camp on the scent of an in season bitch.  I woke to find him gone and fresh tracks told me he had gone off in the direction of Taylors beach. I fired up the Honda and rode into town as fast as I could, scanning the terrain for my stupid mut.  As I neared the house where I suspected he might be there were a group of people talking out the front.  A Council Ranger was among them and I could see Husky in the caged rear compartment of his car.  The people who owned the female dog had called the council because Hus was being such a nuisance and it took a whole lot of sweet talking before I got him back.  The Ranger handed me an official warning notice that said I had to get him registered and other than that no real harm had been done.   With the yacht and the motorbike gone I was left with what amounted to a far more transportable load that would fit into a hired trailer with the tinny strapped on top. If I scored the right ride I would be able to cover far greater distances than I ever could as the captain of a marooned sailboat and the possibility of getting back to the Northern rivers was high on my agenda.  The Port Stephens area had been good to me through the years but circumstance was telling me it was time to hit the road. 

The vibe from Buck and his crew had become downright heavy because I wasn’t part of their meth-amphetamine dependent network and they had me targeted as an outsider. I had known some of those deadbeat arseholes for more than twenty years. People hey! Why fucking bother?  My stay at Hollywood came to an abrupt end when I returned to the truck and found the door had been forced and my camp was violently ransacked.  The fishermen were the first possible culprits that came to mind when I spotted my gutting knife dug deep into the pillow on my bedroll.  Nothing had been stolen however which caused me to wonder if it might have been someone else.  The hired box trailer strategy got it’s first official road test that very afternoon as I hastily emptied the truck of my stuff.  John Macauly a mate of mine who worked at the local bottle department offered his assistance when I told him about the knife in my pillow.  There was no sign of Buck or any of his crew as we packed the load and his phone was still out of range by the time we left the lot.  John agreed to tow my load all the way to the Hunter river in Newcastle where he would drop me off and then return with the car trailer to the Shell garage.  He wouldn’t take a red cent for petrol or his help and said he was more than glad to help.  I often wonder if John was a Christian. When finally I made phone contact with Buck I was to discover it was in fact he who had busted into the truck.  After a heated screaming match had subsided to more civil tones I was to hear how I had caused two thousand dollars worth of frozen lobsters to go rotten by turning off a fridge in the house.  His cursing accusations soon fell silent as I informed him of the squashed and burnt out power cable I found under a recently installed spare parts rack.  One of his workers had caused a short circuit and not informed him and I get the blame with a gutting knife stuck in my pillow.  In my time I have heard some grizzly tales about how ‘Ice’ can fuck your mind and my one time friend is evidence they are true. How does the most easy going and admirable guy you know become the most highly strung arsehole you’ve ever met? It just doesn’t make any sense. 

Having fled the threat zone and happily camping on the banks of the Hunter River with Hus I was inspired by the knowledge I had survived to live another day.  The incident with Buck was caused by a simple lack of communication but the knife in the pillow could very well have been a final warning from the stinky fishos. This fact alone was enough to convince me I had acted wisely in leaving.  My policy has always been to seek new horizons if ever more than two threat factors share the same territory.  I developed this strategy way back in my life after I read the Magus by John Fowls. He describes in the book how two men are playing dice and loser is required to swallow a lethal pill. One of the men throws the losing dice and when he is offered the pill he refuses it.  Instead of insisting he takes it the other man commends his decision, claiming that cowardice is a mark of true intelligence.  It wasn’t so much cowardice that made me flee Port Stephens but the common sense knowledge I was out numbered by those who wished me harm. 

My campsite on the Hunter was situated at Sandgate on an artificial embankment of hardened slag from the BHP steelworks.  The local anglers said the slag was originally put there to protect the mangroves but all it did was restrict the flow of water into the wetlands.  I wouldn’t mind betting those who ordered the slag to be poured stand to gain a fortune when the mangroves are all dead and the land is opened up for development.  Fishing from the bank wasn’t as plentiful as it had been in Port Stephens but I was still able to hook the odd catch if the line didn’t get severed by protruding fingers of oyster covered slag.  After the upheavals I had gone through since losing the yacht I reveled in the simple, daily delights of hunting for my dinner and exploring new territory.  There were a couple of inlets just across the river from my camp where mudcrabs could be trapped by those prepared to brave a constant swarm of blood sucking mozzies.  I gave it my best shot in the terrible conditions but eventually I gave up defeated.  Just like the Sandflys in Cromitary bay I left the insects to their domain and retreated to my fly screened shelter.  I’m getting too old for this shit.

A short bike ride from the Sandgate boat ramp I could connect with a main road that took me the twelve or so miles into Newcastle.  The closest place to pick up supplies was the outer suburb of Mayfield and this is where more often than not I was able to score some weed.  On the weekends if the mood took me I left Hus guard the camp and rode into Newcastle to check out the many corner pubs along the way. I discovered a number of unpretentious little drinking holes that had bands of my era playing in the front bar and they were spurred along by rowdy weekend crowds. I discovered a far better variety of nightlife options than I ever found in the Port Stephens area and it was a nostalgic treat to throw coins in a buskers case late in the evening. With each of the guitar strumming minstrels I encountered among the closing time drunks of Newcastle the ache grew inside me to do the same.

The first time I spotted and old wino eating out of a garbage can in the city center I had a nostalgic flutter back to the Kings Cross days.  My excitement at certain details of city life came as a revelation about where this new leg of the journey might be taking me.  I had replaced an up market coastal retreat, with the hard core reality of low income, urban sprawl and I was digging it.  Life was telling me to snap out of my Mosquito Coast fantasies and get as citified as I possibly could.  But why?  The only thing I could come up with was the idea that my boating adventures were something I had to get out of my system so I could re-awaken the street performer within. What an inspiring but truly daunting thought.  The practicalities of doing a show were outside the range of what my present reality allowed but a plan to come out of retirement became my New Years resolution as I partied with post punk groovers at the Cambridge hotel. They welcomed me into their fold with open arms and I received friendly embraces as the midnight hour came around.  I camped on the banks of the Hunter River until I was adequately acclimatized to urbanity then I started making plans for a move closer to Sydney.  After studying my tattered assortment of maps I concluded that the Central Coast was a good option because it was reasonably close to the metropolitan area yet far enough away to feel remote.  The township of Windsor on the Hawksbury River seemed like the best strategy I could pursue as it sits on the upper reaches of the Hawksbury and the mouth is at the Central Coast. If the river was unobstructed by man made barriers I might be able to explore its entire length in search of a new home. A disused boatshed would be the best thing I could possibly find but I was ready to settle for anything close to a place I could perform.

Will Smith is the most consistent of all of the old crew when it comes to staying in touch.  He calls me up out of the blue from time to time just to say hi and see how I am doing.  Often I have told him how much I appreciate the calls as they provide a sense of belonging I would not otherwise have.  Right at the point where I was getting removalist quotes and preparing to leave the Hunter Will called and I gave him an earful about what I had been doing. He was angered to hear the yacht had been confiscated by the authorities and truly mortified when I told him I was driven out of the area by deranged fishermen. In his usual concern for my well being Will offered to drive from the Blue Mountains with his car trailer and take me to the boat ramp in Windsor.  It was agreed that we would meet up at the Sandgate ramp in three days hence where I would be fully packed and ready to go.

 William and I were in contact on our mobiles from early up on the morning of our agreed meeting. He arrived at the Sandgate ramp about midday and after we had exchanged hugs he started taking snapshots of me and my load.  On my request he took a shot of a passing coal train with a giant wind turbine spinning in the distance as our conversation changed from fishing stories to the perils of fossil fuels.  After the trailer was loaded we headed off towards Windsor and it felt good to be catching up with him face to face.  Telephones are great for exchanging vital information but nothing beats one on one interplay among friends. In the time since last we were together Will had become totally immersed in the role of the dutiful husband and father while I had become more feral and distanced from society. It didn’t feel we had drifted apart in the process however and our road trip was spiced with genuine laughter.  Often is the case that when old companions from the freedom trail get hitched guys like me are forgotten. Unlike others I have known Will appeared to be keeping his mind open to realities outside the square and the limitations of the daily grind.



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